Ancient Ireland: Grianan of Aileach Stone Fort

To visit the Grianan of Aileach, a car will likely be needed. There is a small car park at the top of a tiny laneway leading to the hilltop.

From there, access to the site is up a very short path. The site is not well-signposted along the road, and though only a few kilometres from the main national road, visitors will first navigate a few country roads to arrive at the site.

Of course, another option is to bike through Donegal. Exploring the wild landscapes of the “Forgotten County” (also named the coolest place on Earth a few years ago!) by bike is the perfect way to take in the vast panoramas and rich heritage like this Iron Age fort of Donegal.

During the era in which the Grianan of Aileach stone fort was built, a lot of changes were afoot. New advances meant that people could settle down more easily and society was adjusting to meet this new settled way of life. Impressive hillfort construction like this one allowed Irish society to become more complex and hierarchical. Such changes meant the rise of powerful kings and chieftains, setting the scene for the Middle Ages and beyond.

The Grianan of Aileach is one of the identified “royal sites” – though far less famous than the massive complex found at the Hill of Tara, or the off-the-better-path Rathcroaghan (also known as the birthplace of Halloween). The Hill of Tara was where the High Kings of Ireland sat for centuries, though each region (Connacht, Ulster, Leinster and Munster) had their own royal seat.

Grianan of Aileach fort was an early medieval royal seat for the northern Uí Néill (later anglicised O’Neil) of Cenél nEógain. (Though the O’Neils later moved to another less remote site in Tyrone at the turn of the 11th century). But from the late 500s to its destruction in 1101, the Grianan of Aileach was a hugely important and revered royal site.

Glenveagh National Park

One of Ireland’s six national parks, Glenveagh is probably the most isolated. Once part of an old hunting estate, there is still a gloriously gothic Victorian hunting castle in the park. Beyond the castle garden’s manicured estate, explore Glenveagh’s network of hiking and cycling trails, wild bogland, tumbling waterfalls, and of course the narrow Lough Veagh that lends its name to the park. Keep an eye out for the deer who roam Glenveagh and if you’re lucky you might even spot Glenveagh’s resident golden eagles. Plenty of other birds to spot too though!

Malin Head

Ireland’s northernmost point, Malin Head is a wild, rocky peninsula that juts out into the swirling Atlantic. Home to a Napoleonic signal tower, a WWII-era “EIRE” sign (signalling neutral Irish terrain), jagged sea stacks, plenty of seabirds and some great Atlantic views, Malin Head should be on all Donegal bucket lists. Its wild terrain attracted film scouts – many scenes from recent Star Wars were filmed using Malin Head’s rugged backdrop.

Lough Swilly Fjord

Ireland has just three fjords. Though Killary Fjord is the most famous (likely due to it being in Connemara), Donegal has its own beautiful fjord – Lough Swilly. There are several beautiful vistas over this spectacular inlet of water. The best way to experience Lough Swilly’ fjords is by biking its glittering shores. Or you could take the ferry across, for what more exciting way is there to take in the full force of a fjord than from the water?

Derry City

Though home to a troubled recent history, Derry is a changing place. Gone are the dark days of the past; now, Derry is an up-and-coming Irish city full of culture, shopping, cuisine and of course the famous murals and the even more famous walls. Derry makes a great base from which to explore the area, or else, a fun day trip while exploring Donegal and more.

Inch Island

A small island, reach Inch Island by causeway. In fact, there are two causeways – one for cars, and one for hikers across the sound. The island is home to a wildlife reserve good for bird-watching, with purpose-built paths along the water. It also has some lovely views, including Greenan Hill and Grianan of Aileach. In addition, there’s a castle ruin – though private, view the ruin from the pedestrian causeway.

Letterkenny

The other northern city is Letterkenny. Though smaller and less well-known than Derry, Letterkenny makes a good base for those wishing to explore Glenveagh and northern Donegal while still enjoying the benefits of being based in town. With plenty of pubs in town, make sure you try a pint of Kinnegar, a delicious Donegal-brewed beer.