Close
Articles by Year

<<     >>

Articles by Category
Book a Call
Flag

Locations

Selected Trips

    Dublin’s Trinity College & the Book of Kells

    Insights from a Former Student

    Guest Author: Adam Rainbolt, Author

    Dublin's Literary Heart

    The iconic campus of Trinity College Dublin, nestled in the centre of Dublin, is no stranger to notable sights and traditions. Since its 1592 founding, it has been home to an eighteenth-century murder (and, supposedly, the victim’s ghost), the oldest student society in the world, superstitions around the central bell tower (or, if you’re a local, ‘the Campanile’) and alumni ranging from Oscar Wilde and Bram Stoker to Sally Rooney.

    But, out of all the pieces of the campus’ centuries-long history, one rises above everything else: the Book of Kells, described by one medieval chronicler as “the chief treasure of the western world.”

    As a history graduate of Trinity College, a former tour guide, and a long-time admirer of Irish history, I share my passion for Trinity, its library, and the Book of Kells below.

    Students of Trinity College

    Trinity College’s campus.

    Trinity is an active university home to around 14,000 undergraduates and 6,000 postgraduates.

    It has been the alma mater for some of Ireland’s most celebrated artists (such as Oscar Wilde and Bram Stoker), politicians (including revolutionary thinkers like Theobald Wolfe Tone, Robert Emmet and Ireland’s first female president, Mary Robinson), and two Nobel Prize-winning scientists. Walking through the campus’s famous neoclassical Front Square and multiple green spaces, it’s easy to soak up its rich history.

    Trinity College Dublin was founded in 1592 by Queen Elizabeth I and was modelled on the Universities of Oxford and Cambridge, of which it is still a sister college. In the years since, it has often been deeply embroiled in the Anglo-Irish conflict that rocked Dublin. Long associated with Protestantism, the Catholic Church banned Catholics from attending the university without a special dispensation until 1970!

    Women at Trinity

    Students on Trinity’s campus.

    Additionally, women were not admitted to the university until 1904. Despite this, it still offered degrees to women far before Oxford (1920) or Cambridge (1948), leading to the so-called “steamboat ladies”, English women who, taking advantage of the sister college system, completed all of their classes at Oxford or Cambridge (which allowed women to study but not receive degrees) before taking a quick trip on a steamboat across the Irish Sea to collect their equivalent degree at Trinity.

    The student body looks a lot different today than it did in the past, however, as around 75% are Catholic and 60% are women.

    The campus is a perfect trip away from the bustle of downtown Dublin—walking into its iconic front gates, one is instantly transported into the past, as Front Square has barely changed over the centuries.

    Visitors can either wander the campus at their own pace (just watch out for students rushing to class!) or sign up for a guided tour run by the university.

    Visiting the Museum & Old Library

    Staircase in the Old Library

    Not sure where to find the famous Book of Kells in Dublin? To visit the Book of Kells, you’ll need to enter the college campus. Walk through Trinity’s Front Gate (at the end of Dame Street) into the campus courtyard. The Book of Kells is located in the Old Library, positioned to your left past the neoclassical Exam Hall. Signs direct visitors to the front of the Old Library, which is located on the other side of the building (towards Nassau Street).

    Head to the Book of Kells experience, starting with a visit to the accompanying museum. Here, you’ll see high-resolution photographs of the book’s most famous pages, learn how medieval pigments were made, and learn about life in Ireland during the Middle Ages. Ever wondered what it was like to be a medieval monk or scribe? This museum will offer a fascinating look into Ireland when the Book of Kells was made.

    In this museum, you’ll discover the book’s often fantastic history, its place in Irish culture, and its composition. Then, you’ll head into a darkened room where the Book of Kells itself is on display at the page chosen by the curator.

    As it can be busy year-round, you’ll need to book your tickets to see the Book of Kells in advance.

    The Book of Kells: Illuminating the Dark Ages

    You’ve heard the name, but what is the Book of Kells?

    Crafted in the eighth century by medieval monks, the Book of Kells is one of the most amazing examples of a medieval art form: the illuminated manuscript.

    Written during the Dark Ages (which lasted from roughly the 5th to the 10th centuries), illuminated manuscripts stand out as a beacon of light, examples of the beautiful artwork created by medieval artisans. The Book of Kells is a stunningly beautiful religious text comprising the four gospels (Matthew, Mark, Luke, and John).

    Each page is adorned with wonderfully intricate designs, transforming the words into a beautiful depiction of animals, Biblical figures, and geometric designs. Incredibly, each page is made out of gold leaf and rich colours, which have maintained their radiance for over 1,200 years.

    The Long Room

    Trinity College’s Long Room.

    Past the Book of Kells, you will find the Long Room. Built between 1712 and 1732, this stunning and breathtaking 65-metre building can hold up to 200,000 books. As a legal deposit library, any book published in Ireland is automatically added to the collection. Particularly famous books in Trinity’s collection include one of Shakespeare’s First Folios, a Gutenberg Bible, as well as works by great thinkers, Isaac Newton and Copernicus.

    Visitors can also see a surviving copy of the 1916 Irish Proclamation (look out for typos and inconsistent fonts—the Proclamations were printed illegally in the middle of the night, so eagle-eyed visitors might spy some errors) and the Brian Boru Harp, a medieval harp which is the national symbol of Ireland (and, unrelatedly, the symbol of Guinness).

    The edges of the Long Room are decorated with 40 busts of figures ranging from Ancient Greek philosophers to juggernauts in Irish history. In 2023, the College commissioned four new busts of important women—the first female busts in the collection—including Rosalind Franklin, Ava Lovelace, Mary Wollstonecraft, and Lady Augusta Gregory (read her story here).

    The Book of Kells Legacy

    What makes the Book of Kells such a famous artefact?

    The Book of Kells is not only one of the most famous books in history (rivalled only by the Gutenberg Bible, the Dead Sea Scrolls, and Shakespeare’s First Folio), but it is also one of Ireland’s most treasured objects, renowned for its beauty, intricacy, and cultural impact.

    In 2011, the Book of Kells was recognised as a UNESCO Memory of the World item (learn more about Ireland’s UNESCO connections here)—for good reason. Not only iconic, its artwork has also been incredibly influential. The Book of Kells’ famous designs have not only inspired Irish literary giants like the poet W.B. Yeats and novelist James Joyce (of Ulysses fame), but also influenced modern Celtic artwork.

    View the Book of Kells

    An inspiring cultural wonder, the Book of Kells is worth seeing in person for anyone who is interested in Irish culture, history, and heritage.

    Visitors can take a walk through the Book of Kells museum, located on the Trinity College campus, to see the pages that have inspired Irish artists for over a millennium.

    Viewers will wonder at the beauty and intricacy of pages like the famous Chi Ro page, which holds the first two Greek letters of Christ’s name, ornamented with golden decoration and interlocking figures of animals and people (including, in true Irish fashion, a red-headed Christ).

    Not only will you have a chance to see the book in person, but you’ll learn a lot about medieval Ireland, the scribes who wrote and inscribed the book, and pigments used in illumination. You’ll also walk through the famous Long Room – more on that later.

    One of the Book of Kells’ many beautiful designs.

    The Library Today

    Visitors to the library may be surprised to find many of its shelves empty. The Old Library Redevelopment Project, which is devoted to ensuring that the library is entirely fireproof and the books are properly maintained, is currently in the process of removing every book from the library to address any conservation needs and digitally scan each page to be published online, ensuring that anybody across the world can study the collection.

    For a fixed period of time, the Book of Kells may be relocated to a different venue on campus (the historic Printing House) to allow the college to complete the renovation process. However, visitors will still be able to visit it.

    In the meantime, the university has installed the Book of Kells Experience, which offers visitors a mixed-reality look at the Library’s treasures and the history of the Library and the Book.

    Bringing History to Life

    Statues in the Long Room at Trinity.

    A day spent with the Book of Kells, the Old Library, and Trinity’s campus is an opportunity to see the past brought to life.

    Whether it is strolling past the apartments once inhabited by Samuel Beckett and Oscar Wilde, or taking a moment to breathe in the air of the Old Library which is permanently tinted with the smell of old books, it is a place which embodies centuries of history.

    One exciting part of that aspect of the experience is the opportunity to learn about the aspects of history which might not make it into textbooks.

    Learn more about some of the stories inspired by Ireland here.

    Book of Kells Scandals

    Look closely at the bottom of this page, and you might notice some additional text, not originally part of the Book of Kells.

    With over a thousand years of history, it shouldn’t come as a surprise that the Book of Kells has picked up a few scandals. Many visitors might not know that the Book of Kells was once stolen. According to medieval chronicles, the Book (which, at that time, had a gold and gem-incrusted cover to let everyone know just how important it was) went missing and was only discovered around two months later “under a sod”—albeit, without its golden cover.

    Other stories swirl around the Book and Library. Supposedly, students were allowed to check it out as a library book until the seventeenth century, until it was deemed too risky, given that they would sometimes keep it past its due date.

    In the 1800s, one restoration went wrong, with the supposed expert cutting the pages to make the book look more uniform, leading to a few of the famous illustrations being cropped. Speaking of scandalous alterations, the Book of Kells (or at least, a modern flyleaf in the book) was signed by the touring Queen Victoria and Prince Albert in 1849, making it

    Today, the Book is under much more intense security. It is kept in a reinforced glass case that monitors light and moisture levels. Only the Head Curator is allowed to be in the building when a new page is chosen for display every six weeks.

    Marginalia – History’s Doodles

    These stories outline just how human history can be, rather than just a collection of dates and facts. On other medieval manuscripts, these human touches are seen in the form of ‘marginalia’—notes and drawings left in the margins of medieval manuscripts.

    Monks, who worked long, difficult hours (and, although they didn’t know it, often with pigments made with poisons like arsenic) sometimes left their complaints, bemoaning their hours, their pay, or their materials (writing could only be done in daylight, so one scribe wrote ““Thank God, it will soon be dark.”).

    While the Book of Kells does not have many cases of marginalia, it does have plenty of examples of fun (and strange) drawings, so visitors will have plenty of opportunities to marvel at the fact that medieval scribes truly did not know what many animals looked like!

    Viewing the Book of Kells Online

    As a visitor to the Book of Kells, you will be able to see whatever page the Curator has chosen for display, and, once you reach the Old Library, you can also see some of the most famous pages in a perfect facsimile of the Book. However, if you want to see all of its illustrations, you should visit Trinity’s Digital Collections here, as the Book of Kells has been fully scanned.

    Visits to the Book of Kells and the Old Library should be booked online in advance, while Trinity College Dublin’s campus is free to enter.

    Dublin Travel Guide

    Curious about Dublin? Check out our Dublin Travel Guide to learn all you need to know about visiting Ireland’s famous capital city.

    Read More

    Visit Ireland

    Meet the Guest Author: Adam Rainbolt

    Adam is a Trinity College graduate with an undergraduate degree in Ancient and Medieval History and a lifelong love of research, culture, and Europe’s multilayered past. An American expat, Adam has spent most of his life intrigued by European history, and dreams of one day becoming a college professor to teach the subject to future generations. He’s currently working on a Master’s degree in Late Antique and Byzantine Studies at the University of Oxford.

    View profile

    mail

    Want more Wilderness in your life?

    Be the first to hear about new trips, locations and activities with our monthly newsletter

    X

    Culture & Heritage – Legends of Northern Ireland

    Love all things Ireland? Make the Emerald Isle your next great adventure. We think you might love our Culture & Heritage – Legends of Northern Ireland. To download a PDF copy of this itinerary, containing full details about this tour, please complete the form below.



    The phone number field is not required but if you would like us to give you a call to help find the trip for you, then enter your telephone number including the country code.